Wednesday, November 10, 2010

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SI PHOTOGRAPHER SNOW BECOMES SEQUINS (about costume design in Italian cinema) PART ONE AGAINST ALL






SECOND DELIVERY


By Diana Ovalle

Correspondent The Moviola
Rome (Italy)




fell from a tree like the painter and costume designer Danilo Donati, who like lightning in the middle of the forest envelops light skin and eyes of his characters, beginning his work with Franco Zeffirelli in 1959 is called by Mario Monicelli to make costumes for the film "The Great War" and those characters: Jacovacci and Busacca (Sordi and Gassman) involuntary heroes a war in makeshift military uniforms, boots with cardboard soles, and a battle helmet spinning like a diamond in the folly of war. Danilo Donati

After this work would have a huge row of faces, bodies, characters before him, searching his eyes to reach everyone. In 1962 made the costumes for the episode "La Ricotta" from the film PPPasolini Ro.Go.Pa.g, recostruyendo habits Pontormo's paintings and Rosso Fiorentino, and establishes its collaboration with Pasolini in the film "Il secondo Vangelo Matteo (The Gospel according to Matthew) and thereafter Danilo Donati, squeezed through his passion for painting and his job as costume designer sensibility that touches the depths of history, the nature of the characters that are not mannequins in scene, but the voice of this same, among their other creations, are: "Francesco" (1989) by Liliana Cavani, "Uccellacci, uccellini", "Oedipus Re" (1967), "Teorema" (1968) and "Porcile" (1969) by Pier Paolo Pasolini . Zeffirelli

once again finds his school friend, Donati and invites him to work in "Romeo and Juliet" (1968), with which you receive the Oscar for best costume. Will be 1969, when Federico Fellini Donati find, and the pages will not be sufficient, nor necessary to count how much could happen in the film "Roma" (1972), "Amarcord" (1973), "Il Casanova" (1976), with which he received his second Oscar for best costume. Costume Pasolini's irreplaceable, I realize the poet's trilogy ("Il Decameron" 1970, "I racconti di Canterbury" 1971 and "Il fiore delle mille e una notte" 1973). Among other workers who complete their films, the art of Danilo Donati, rip wit the tradition of a new world, Jocasta in "Oedipus re" wears a cloak of shells, tunics costal fibers, charms pills reconstructed mosaics, lamps electricity in the world of Fellini's surreal and ironic complete the robes of priests and a experiemtno Donati gave another costume life wit of a poet as Benigni wanted to express, at night "The poet works."


At his side and as a friend and colleague defrente Piero Tosi, followed a route farther to the scene and characters, costume favored by Luchino Visconti, Piero Tosi began his career with "Bellissima" 1951, the same author, dense work neorealist poetic, clothing collected by their own street clothes, full of life for Anna Magnani recite in a strength and floor expiring while the image is open, from this experience Piero Tosi hosted the reality of the dress (as worn and lived ) as a value to represent, as happened also with the new filmic aesthetic of neorealism. The


Construction of the theater scene or film show, deals with open space to the body of the characters, words and music with them hanging moments of the play and in its entirety as an art of vision projects the "image" of the same story . Similarly, the costume as a visible representation, is built in the footsteps of his characters, giving each the colors and forms that guide their movements, read their thoughts, modeling more than a body, the character of a character. Piero Tosi


with Luchino Visconti, I think the image of a work that imitates the smell of the bodies of fabrics, metals and leather trunks recovered from some pirate distracted. These

are "Le notti bianche" (1957), "Rocco ei suoi fratelli" (1960), "Il Gattopardo" (1963), with whom receive an Oscar nomination for best costume, "I straniero" (1967), "La caduta degli dei" (1969), and also with "Morte a Venezia" (1971), and "Ludwig" (1972) received the Oscar nomination for best costumes. Liliana Cavani, Piero Tosi draw the body of Charlotte Rampling in the city away dull, gray, decadent Vienna in 1975 in "Il portiere di notte" (1974), will rebuild with Pasolini "Medea" (1969), eyes Maria Callas as a bird of the Amazon.


Wizard and future colleague Piero Tosi, Gabriella Pescucci be given to the office of the locker room since childhood in the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, as an eagle-eyed apprentice, Gabriella Pescucci take your hand lesson opening Piero Tosi it our way under the lights of the scene. Among his first creations, working with the director Giuseppe Patroni Griffi in "Addio, Fratello Crudele" (1971), "Identikit" (1974), "divine creature" (1975), while Fellini goes again walking down the streets of Rome with the idea imagine a city of women, as in there women in this city of "La città delle donne" (1980) Pescucci falls in their dresses and veils herons ORNAND between the bodies of women who dreamed Fellini while snow is falling apart, among others, along with some steps the hands of the wardrobe, they discover "C'era una volta in America" \u200b\u200b( 1984) by Sergio Leone, "The Name of the Rose" (1986) by Jean-Jacques Annaud, and then it will cross the ocean to find Martin Scorsese with "The Age of Innocence" (1993), with whom receive Oscar for best costume. Below a certain Willy Wonka, the Pescucci claim that hat pipe from China and re-adapted to the French and English society 800 'in "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory "(2005) by Tim Burton, when just woken up after" The Adventures of Baron Munchausen "(1990) by Terry Gilliam.

These hands, similar to a carpenter and these eyes, like those of a bird in flight, are an essential part of the visible representation within the art of films, theater and television also waiting. Being in the service of history and director of the threads of this art are immersed in the flow of a river where fish the illusion among the field of the earth.

Finally beating out some names, Milena Canonero represents a path of fairies to the world of apparel through its magnificent creations with Stanley Kubrick in "Clockwork Orange" (1971), "Barry Lyndon" (1975) and "Shining" (1980). Recalling turn "The Godfather III" (1990) by Francis Ford Coppola and "Marie Antoinette" (2006) of the same daughter Sofia Coppola, with which it receives the Oscar for best costume.

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